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Vintage Ringsvintage, antique & second hand

Vintage ring buying guide

A vintage ring is a one-off, and buying one online means judging it from photos and a description. This checklist covers what to look for before you buy one on eBay.

1. Check the metal and the hallmark

Ask for, or zoom into, a photo of the inside of the band. A British hallmark shows the maker, the standard (9, 14, 15, 18, 22 or "PLAT"), the assay office and usually a date letter, which tells you the year the ring was marked. Some useful dates:

  • 15ct gold (62.5%) was a legal British standard only from 1854 to 1932, so a 15ct hallmark tells you the ring is from those years.
  • Platinum is about 95% pure in modern UK hallmarked rings. It was not hallmarked in the UK until 1975, so older platinum rings are usually stamped "PLAT" or "PT" by the maker instead.
  • 9ct gold (37.5%, stamped 375) has been a British standard since 1854. It is harder-wearing and much cheaper than 18ct, which is why it makes up most of the affordable vintage rings on eBay.

Unmarked rings are not always fakes (many antique rings were never hallmarked), but a seller should say how they tested the metal.

2. Understand old diamond cuts

Diamonds in vintage rings are usually older cuts: old mine (cushion shaped, made before about 1890), old European (round, with a small table and a visible culet, roughly 1890–1930), rose cut (flat-bottomed, domed facets) and transitional cuts. They sparkle more softly than a modern brilliant, and many buyers prefer them for that. Weights in titles are often estimates: a certificate or a jeweller's valuation is worth more than a seller's guess.

3. Ask how the stones were identified

"Sapphire" in a title can mean natural, synthetic (common since the early 1900s) or, in costume pieces, glass. A gemmologist's report, a certificate (GIA, IGI, HRD) or a recent jeweller's valuation is the best evidence. Our pages leave out listings that say cubic zirconia, moissanite, simulated, lab-grown or crystal, but a seller who doesn't know won't say.

4. Look closely at condition

  • Claws: thin, flat or missing claws risk losing a stone. Re-tipping is a routine repair but budget for it.
  • Shank: a very thin or cracked shank at the back of the band will need re-shanking.
  • Stones: chips on the edges of emeralds and opals, and missing small stones in clusters, are common.
  • Repairs and resizing: a solder line at the back shows the ring has been resized, which is normal.

5. Check the size, or plan to resize

Most rings can be resized by a jeweller by one or two sizes. Full eternity rings usually can't. See our ring size guide to convert UK, US and EU sizes.

6. Check the seller and the returns

Prefer sellers with a long feedback record and a returns policy. Dealers often give more detail and accept returns; private sellers are sometimes cheaper. eBay's Money Back Guarantee covers rings that don't arrive or aren't as described, which is why a clear, accurate description matters.

7. Check the price against similar rings

Every ring on this site shows how its price compares with similar rings listed today. A ring far below similar rings deserves a closer look, not a quick click: see how we price rings.

Rings by era

Georgian (1714–1837)

Georgian rings (1714–1837) are the rarest on eBay. Look for closed-back settings, foil-backed stones, rose and table cut diamonds set in silver on gold, and high-carat yellow gold. Many are unmarked: hallmarking of most gold rings was not enforced the way it is today, so judge them on construction and wear, and buy from sellers who describe both.

Victorian (1837–1901)

Victorian rings (1837–1901) are mostly yellow gold, often 15ct or 18ct, with carved or engraved shanks. Typical stones are old mine cut diamonds, garnets, turquoise, seed pearls and rubies, set in half hoops, clusters and gypsy settings. Snake rings became fashionable after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria one as her engagement ring in 1839, and mourning rings with black enamel or hairwork were common.

Edwardian (1901–1915)

Edwardian rings (1901–1915) brought platinum into fashion: fine, lacy settings with milgrain edges, often "platinum topped" on an 18ct gold shank. Old European cut diamonds, sapphires and pearls set as three stone rings, boat-shaped clusters and slim solitaires are the classic looks.

Art Deco (1920–1939)

Art Deco rings (about 1920–1939) are geometric: platinum or white gold, square and octagonal plaques, stepped shoulders, baguette and calibré-cut sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and illusion settings that make small diamonds look bigger. Old European cut diamonds were the standard cut of the period.

Retro (1940s–50s) (1940–1959)

Retro rings (1940s and 1950s) are bolder: rose and yellow gold, chunky "tank" and scroll shapes, large coloured stones and illusion-set diamonds. Platinum was scarce during the war years, so many rings of the period are gold, and synthetic sapphires and rubies were widely used.

1960s–70s (1960–1979)

1960s and 1970s rings are easy to date from their British hallmarks. Expect textured "bark" yellow gold, high-set solitaires, flower-head clusters, and coloured stones such as amethyst, opal and garnet, usually in 9ct or 18ct gold.

1980s–90s (1980–1999)

1980s and 1990s rings are the newest in our "vintage" range: mostly 9ct and 18ct yellow gold with brilliant cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies, often in clusters, half hoops and three stone settings.